DANISH FASHION ETHICAL CHARTER

PURPOSE

The Danish Fashion Ethical Charter seeks to ensure the well-being of employees in the Danish fashion industry and to contribute to the creation of relevant and appropriate information about eating disorders and about the beauty and body ideals the fashion industry is a part of creating. This includes, for example, models, editors, stylists, photographers, make-up artists and designers, all of whom play a role in establishing those ideals.

Danish Fashion Ethical Charter will also help raise awareness and influence attitudes in the fashion industry as well as in the media and in society in general, which is why the charter contains a number of measures and rules signatories must adhere to.

BACKGROUND

The Danish Fashion Ethical Charter was founded in 2007 by Danish Fashion Institute (today, two separate organisations; Global Fashion Agenda and Copenhagen Fashion Week) in collaboration with the Danish Association against Eating Disorders and Self-harm. Previously, the purpose of the charter was exclusively to ensure the well-being of Danish models and to contribute to the creation of valuable information about eating disorders and the body ideals the fashion industry helps generate. Initially, the charter represented a plea to the industry, but various high-profile cases led to its expansion in 2013 to include specific rules related to age, a healthy diet and wages. In 2015 the charter entered into a new phase when the Danish fashion industry was given the opportunity to actively sign and apply the charter. A steering committee for the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter was also established to continue the work initiated just over 10 years ago. In 2017 the committee launched the world’s first health check for models and in 2018 two new values were added to the charter. Moreover, the charter now encompasses the entire Danish fashion industry, though the rules continue to primarily focus on Danish models.

VALUES

Danish Fashion Ethical Charter focuses on five core values involving accountability, compassionate respect and health:

  1. We respect and protect industry employees (including models) and the colleagues we work with. We wish to ensure their health and safety, and we appreciate diversity.
  2. We are aware of and take responsibility for the impact the fashion industry has on body ideals, especially on young people.
  3. We wish to promote and work towards healthy lifestyles as well as a healthy body ideal that reflects a healthy relationship to food, body and exercise.
  4. We wish to promote and work towards greater diversity in the fashion industry regarding ability, age, ethnicity, gender, race, religion, sexual orientation, size, socio-economic status, etc.
  5. We exhibit respectful behavior on photoshoots and at shows, including speaking nicely to one another and respecting one another’s (including models’) personal physical and mental boundaries.

RULES

Danish Fashion Ethical Charter consists of four general rules specifically related to models:

1. Age limit

Models must be at least 16 years of age in order to work.

Models who are 15 years of age can be given dispensation to work if accompanied by an adult. Models under 15 can only work with children’s and teenage clothing and likewise must be accompanied by an adult (which the agency arranges). The charter also refers to the Danish Working Environment Act.

2. Healthy diet

Clients (fashion companies, photographers, magazines, ad agencies and others) commit to serving models nutritious and healthy food at jobs that last more than two hours.

3. Wages

Models must receive monetary payment for their work. Dispensation from the obligation to pay wages is only possible in agreement with the model for work done for educational institutions, student projects, charities and non-commercial publications (i.e. publications without advertising revenues or sales).

Note on wages: Agreements concerning specific wages and conditions are made between the model agency/the model and the client and between the model agency and the model. Greater transparency and assurance of the individual model’s rights are required in this connection.

4. Health check & Medical Certificates

Many people, especially young individuals, struggle to achieve unrealistic ideals of thinness, and there is a rise in the number of serious eating disorders. This makes the beauty and body ideals promoted by the fashion industry extremely important. The Steering Committee for the Fashion Industry’s Ethical Charter introduced and carried out a successful pilot program in 2017 involving health checks for models.

Every time a model undergoes a health check, a record of the visit is documented that contains the results. The agency will receive notice from the Danish Association against Eating Disorders and Self-harm that the model has undergone a health check and be told the results. Brands shall not be held liable for the health checks, only medical certificates.

Who will be assessed?

The Association for Eating Disorders and Self-Harm conducts health checks for all Danish models from agencies that are part of the Fashion Industry’s Ethical Charter, once the models are over 16 years old. During the health check, it is assessed whether and to what extent the model has a problematic relationship with weight, body, and food. The starting point is that the models are not ill. However, experience since 2017 shows that a small number of models engage in risky behavior, and a few have an actual eating disorder each year. The health check is a tool that helps modeling agencies support those who need it, so that models have the best possible conditions to thrive in what can at times be a demanding job.

Procedure for health check

The health check is a conversation lasting approximately one and a half hours with a professional from the Danish Association against Eating Disorders and Self-harm. The purpose is to offer the model a space to reflect on thoughts, feelings, and behaviors related to food, exercise, body, weight, and health. Together with the model, we explore whether these themes are present in a way that feels uncomfortable or problematic.

The health check can also be an opportunity to talk about how one can engage in modeling in a healthy way, with respect for one’s own values and boundaries. The health check is adapted and developed based on the Eating Disorder Examination (EDE), which is an internationally recognized screening tool for assessing symptoms of an eating disorder.

The following criteria are used with the corresponding consequences:

Valid health check for the rest of the career: The health check did not reveal significant signs that the model is at risk of developing an eating disorder, and the model is over 22 years old.

Valid health check for 2 years: The health check did not reveal significant signs that the model is at risk of developing an eating disorder, and the model is between 16–22 years old.

Valid health check for 1 year: Based on the health check, we have noted some areas of concern or risk factors for potentially developing an eating disorder in the future. A follow-up will take place one year later.

This does not mean that the model has an eating disorder. The concern is that the model has described a high level of preoccupation with one or more of the following: body image, body shape, exercise, or food. Based on our conversation, we assess that it is important to address this so that the preoccupation does not increase, and the model can continue to thrive in their modeling career and life in general.

Because of this, we would like to offer the model a short course of 3–5 conversations with a professional from the Association against Eating Disorders and Self-harm. These sessions are not therapy, but aim to provide the model with a space to reflect on their relationship with food, exercise, body, and/or body image in relation to modeling.

This course is an offer, not a requirement. If the model does not wish to participate, we will still need to see the model again in one year for a new health check.

Necessary action: The Association against Eating Disorders and Self-harm assesses, based on the health check, that the model may be at high risk of developing an eating disorder, as the model has described several serious symptoms of such a condition. During the health check, we gained the impression that the model has harmful thoughts about weight, body, exercise, and eating habits, which are symptoms of an eating disorder.

Based on the results of the health check, we recommend that the model contacts their general practitioner (GP) for further assessment and possible treatment.

Before contacting their doctor, the model is very welcome to book a conversation with us, preferably together with their parents or other close relatives if needed. In this conversation, we will talk to the model about what needs to happen next and prepare them for the meeting with the doctor.

The model and the agency must be aware that the model cannot continue working as a model until the model has been assessed. Therefore, it is important that the model contacts their doctor. Once the model has been assessed and possibly received treatment, we would like to see the model again for a new health check.

In addition, the steering committee of the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter will recommend to agencies that a model (regardless of age) undergoes a health check if the committee deems there is sufficient reason for serious concern due to the model’s behaviour or body measurements. The dialogue between the committee and the agency will take place in the strictest confidence. The recommendation is well-intentioned and not meant as a criticism or as coercion. If the agency and the model (and possibly the parents) consider the concern justified, the model can undergo a health check paid for by pooled funding to mitigate the cost burden on the model agency. If the model agency is seriously concerned about a model, it can also recommend that the model (regardless of age) undergoes a health check to be paid for by pooled funding.

It is the agencies’ responsibility to pay for the health check and any possible counseling sessions if the model has been offered this and wishes to participate.


Funding

The Danish healthcare system is currently unable to offer a uniform, nationwide health check focusing on eating disorders, which is why, until politicians are willing to help the industry, the steering committee, together with the major model agencies in Denmark, has developed the following private-sector solution.

The 2017 pilot project on health checks for 16-year-olds was expected to cost about DKK 200,000, including funding for discussion/support groups. If the project continues as planned in 2018 and beyond, the cost will increase concurrently with the number of models undergoing a health check. Each health check will be settled between the Danish Association against Eating Disorders and Self-harm and the model agency. To mitigate the costs model agencies incur, model agencies whose models undergo a health check will impose a “health check fee” of DKK 75.00 on all customer invoices, making the fashion industry instrumental in funding the health check.

The steering committee of the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter also encourages all signatories to contribute annually an amount of their choice. The money will be used to finance, for example, exceptional health checks of models outside the target age group, follow-up interviews and discussion/support groups. Payment is voluntary.

Medical certificates

All international models are required to provide a valid medical certificate. This certificate should serve solely as confirmation that the individual has undergone a recent medical examination and is fit to participate. The document must not include any personal, confidential, or sensitive medical information—only a verification statement from a licensed medical professional.

The completed certificate must be submitted by the brands alongside the casting sheets. It is the responsibility of the respective brands to ensure that these documents are collected and properly filed. Model agencies shall not be held liable for the procurement and submission of medical certificates. In most cases, the associated cost will be covered either by the international model’s agency or by the model themselves.

 

RECOMMENDATIONS

  • Danish Fashion Ethical Charter recommends that a formal framework agreement be entered into concerning wages and working conditions between the associations for model agencies and models. When such an agreement has been entered into, Danish Fashion Ethical Charter will refer to it in terms of, for example wages.
  • Danish Fashion Ethical Charter recommends that, based on the model agency 2PM’s experience with teaching, a short educational course for models working with agencies be designed to teach models about, for example diet, nutrition and mental health. The format must allow implementation at any model agency and agencies are recommended to conduct at least one educational course yearly. The purpose is to support and strengthen models to cope with the realities of being a model and the world they are thrown into, often at a very young age.
  • Danish Fashion Ethical Charter recommends greater transparency and awareness concerning retouched photos in e.g. fashion magazines.

 

 

COMMITMENT – SIGNATORIES

Anyone can commit to Danish Fashion Ethical Charter by signing it. The aim is to establish broad backing from the fashion industry’s relevant stakeholders and companies (such as model agencies, fashion companies, magazines, industry organisations, associations, photographers, ad agencies, PR agencies and trade fairs).

Copenhagen Fashion Week receives and files signed agreements. Signatories receive the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter logo pack for use on, for instance the signatories’ own website, materials and campaigns, as long as the charter’s rules are adhered to.

The names of signatories are listed on the website danishfashionethicalcharter.com.

In addition fashion companies and other players (magazines, PR agencies, stores, agencies) who wish to participate with a show, an event or as a supplier during Copenhagen Fashion Week are required to sign the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter to be part of the official fashion week programme.

SANCTIONS

The Steering Committee’s sanctions are graduated based on the nature and extent of the violation. A typical process is as follows for agencies for not sending all models for a health check is:

  1. Violation during Fashion Week 1: Warning

  2. Violation during Fashion Week 2: Exclusion from the following Fashion Week.

In the case of exclusion, the following consequences will apply:

  • Public listing of the violator on a “blacklist” on the website of the Ethical Charter for the Fashion Industry 
  • Loss of the right to use the Ethical Charter’s logo
  • Loss of the right to visibility in the official programs of Copenhagen Fashion Week, including shows, events, sampling, and advertising
  • Loss of the right to participate in Copenhagen Fashion Week casting days
  • Loss of the right to participate in shows during Copenhagen Fashion Week

 

The Steering Committee’s sanctions are graduated based on the nature and extent of the violation.

 

A typical process is as follows for brands for not providing a medical certificate for international models is:

 

  • Violation at Fashion Week 1: Dialogue

  • Violation at Fashion Week 2: Warning

  • Violation at Fashion Week 3: Exclusion from the following Fashion Week.

 

In the case of exclusion, the following consequences will apply:

  • Public listing of the violator on a “blacklist” on the website of the Ethical Charter for the Fashion Industry 
  • Loss of the right to use the Ethical Charter’s logo
  • Loss of the right to visibility in the official programs of Copenhagen Fashion Week, including shows, events, sampling, and advertising
  • Loss of the right to participate in Copenhagen Fashion Week casting days
  • Loss of the right to hold shows during Copenhagen Fashion Week

 

 

The Steering Committee sets its own rules of procedure.

Signatories, blacklists, warnings, and the work of the Steering Committee can be followed at:
 www.modebranchensetiskecharter.dk